by Artem Volkov
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Some 500 km from Bishkek and 300 km from Osh is The Sary Chelek biosphere reserve, which lies in the Arkit Gorge, a relatively small mountain hollow in the Chatkal Mountains . It was founded in 1959 to protect and research the pristine natural landscapes - lowland steppes and ridges with snow-capped peaks; rapid rivers and mountain lakes; blossoming valleys and alpine meadows (lying between 1200 m and 4274m) - with their varied flora and fauna. More than 1000 species of plants, 160 species of birds and 34 species of mammals (such as deer, bear, lynx, wolves, foxes, badgers, porcupine and even snow leopards) can be found in this relatively small, unspoiled national park. It is also supposed to be a marvelous place for those interested in insects of all kinds.
The Park and area comprises of the river valleys and settlements of the Kara Suu, Hodzha Ata (which flows along a winding course through almost all the territory of the reserve, in places between steep banks, strewn with boulders forming rapid cascades and waterfalls up to 3 meters high), Avletim, It Agar and Pacha Ata rivers. Glaciers and permanent ice fields and high mountain lakes lie on the north facing slopes. Steep sided, wooded, valleys are cut deep into the ridges by fast flowing streams –and where they open onto the plains of the Ferghana Valley , the villages of Kyzyl Tuu, Avletim and Kashka Suu grew up.
The lake itself is situated some 1873 meters above sea level, it stretches for some 7.5 kilometers , varying in width from 350 m . to 1500 m . and it at its deepest point reaches a depth of 234 m – it is the second deepest lake in Kyrgyzstan . The shoreline is deeply indented and lined by steep forested slopes – which descend into the depths of the lake. Shallow areas have developed only in the larger of the bays.
The water level rises with the seasons – varying by about 65 cm . It is fed by the Sary Chelek River , many numerous streams, and underground thermal streams. The outflow is via the TusKaul River .
There is some dispute about how it was formed – some scholars think it resulted from the collapse of two ridges of mountains which blocked the river and held back the waters and others as a result of a shift along a fault line some 2000 years ago. The waters often appear a greenish shade of blue – and make attractive photographs.
The name “Sary Chelek” means “Yellow Bucket”. There is a legend that a bee keeper attending his hives somewhere on the lake shore, was pouring honey into a bucket and was so taken by the colour of the honey that he decided to call the lake “Yellow Bucket”. There are people who think that the lake derives its name from the fact that in the autumn, when all the leaves of the trees turn colour, the whole basin reminds the visitor of a “yellow bucket”.
Access to the lake is possible only from the North and the South. From the North there is a trekking route over the mountains from Talas which crosses high mountain passes and deep canyons, and from the South there is a road almost to the lake shore from the village of Arkyt , 20 km away.
There are also some other small lakes to the south–east (such as Kyla Kol, Iyri Kol , Aram Kol, Cherek Kol, and Bakaly Kol), but Sary Chelek is regarded as the “gem” – the “Jewel in the Crown”.
Generally the climate is damper and milder than in the rest of Kyrgyzstan . The high mountain ridges protect the reserve from the cold northerly winds in winter and the temperature here is much higher than elsewhere in the valleys (although it can fall to -27.) Snow cover in winter, which lasts for over 100 day each year, is fairly uneven – on the southern slopes, often there is no settled snow, but elsewhere it can be over a meter deep. In early summer (May and June) there is a combination of warmth and humidity, which gives way in late summer to warm, dry, windless days.
Some fishing is permitted in the rivers feeding the lake, but not on the lake itself. Swimming was prohibited after some fatal casualties in 1983. Hunting is absolutely prohibited within the reserve.
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