Suzane Workshop

Nestled just a stone's throw away from the Lyabi-Hauz ensemble in the vibrant heart of Bukhara, lies a hidden gem - Rakhimjon Toshev's suzane workshop. Suzane, the epitome of Uzbek craftsmanship, is a mesmerizing blend of intricate floral and mystical patterns, sometimes unraveling enchanting narratives. Though this art form breathes life into numerous schools across Fergana, Tashkent, and Samarkand, the soul of the Bukhara school of suzane finds a home in the workshop of the Toshev family.

This creative clan, rich in its five-generation legacy, weaves more than just threads into their suzane; they weave stories and wisdom, an art passed down from the old to the young. The magic of their craft does not hide behind closed doors, rather, it gleams openly. Rakhmon Toshev, the family patriarch, is a virtual guru to eager learners, guiding them through their craftsmanship journey, nurturing their skills and shaping their talents. In 15 years, he has trained more than 200 people. Tourists can also take part in master classes specially organized for them, one lesson lasts 2 hours.

The Toshev family's intimate affair with suzane embroidery began merely as a hobby. It was only in the dawn of the 21st century that their passion blossomed into a thriving workshop and store. This unique enterprise was birthed from a happy accident. Rakhmon Toshev, once a salesman in a humble grocery store, would spend quiet hours sewing suzane, an art his mother taught him. One fortuitous day, his handiwork caught the eye of British tourists who, enamored by the incomplete suzane, insisted on purchasing it. Surprised and unsure of its value, Rakhmon allowed them to pay what their hearts deemed right. This unexpected income not only aided in household expenses and his son's education, but it also illuminated his path, guiding him to his life's calling.

A few years after the birth of their workshop, the Toshev family moved into an old house, nestled close to Bukhara's tourist heart, the Lyabi-Hauz ensemble. This century-old house, previously a home to Bukhara Jews, now sheltered the Toshev family and their craft. After some major renovations, the ground floor was transformed into a quaint store and workshop, while the family resided upstairs.

Now, stepping into the Toshev family workshop is like walking into a rainbow of suzanes. There are hundreds of them, each unique in size, color, and the stories they tell through their mesmerizing patterns. Suzanes, traditionally used as wall hangings akin to European tapestries, now find their beautiful embroidery gracing bags, purses, suits, and skullcaps.

Among the sea of stunning suzanes, some pieces stand out with their extraordinary histories. For instance, a suzane made by the family's grandmother, a labor of love she invested 15 years of her life into. There are large, unfinished suzanes, projects the family has been breathing life into for several years. And then, there are ancient masterpieces, a century old, crafted by blind artisans who weaved their magic solely through touch.

A visit to the Toshev family's suzane workshop is also a dive into the rich history of this art form. In times gone by, a girl was expected to stitch four suzanes before her wedding. It was through these creations that prospective suitors and matchmakers could glimpse her personality and qualities, since all women then wore burqas. The colours, patterns, and the quality of the embroidery spoke volumes about her hard work, diligence, and worldview. Interestingly, back then, men were also heavily involved in embroidering suzane, as women in the Bukhara Emirate couldn't take orders from the wealthy - a reflection of the societal norms of that era. A man's ability to embroider suzane was crucial for understanding the customer's preferences.

To journey into the heart of this vibrant craft, head south from the Lyabi-Hauz pond for about 100 meters, take a left by the 'Sultan' hotel, and then turn into the first alley on your left. Continue for another 40 meters to the end of the alley. A wooden door, ornately decorated and with copper ring handles, will greet you on the right at the fork. It is your gateway to the enchanting realm of Bukhara suzane.