Aral Sea, Uzbekistan

The Aral Sea was once the fourth-largest lake in the world, but it has shrunk to a tenth of its size over the past fifty years. Today, it is a stark illustration of a major ecological disaster. The lake used to cover an area of 68,900 square kilometers, but it had decreased to less than 7,000 square kilometers by 2020. The water level has fallen by 25 meters, and the salinity has increased to such an extent that it has exterminated all fish species, resembling the conditions of the Dead Sea.

The lake is fed by the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers. However, due to extensive water usage for irrigation and changes in climate, it now receives only a fraction of the water it needs, that is to say, about 20 times less. The former port cities of Muynak and Aralsk are now located dozens of kilometers from the shoreline, their docks transformed into ghostly ship graveyards. The dried-up lakebed has turned into a vast desert known as the Aralkum, similar to the Kyzylkum and Karakum deserts.

The Aral Sea from an airplane ; to the left of the water is the Aralkum Desert

Our travel guide offers intriguing facts about the Aral Sea and details on what to expect when touring this remarkable region.

Aral Sea Tours

Nukus is the usual starting point for tours to the Aral Sea, which is about 200 km away from the former port town of Muynak. To reach the current shoreline of the sea, it takes an extra 100 km of off-road travel from Muynak. Nukus' international airport operates daily flights from Tashkent and weekly flights from Moscow and other cities in the CIS. You can also find SUVs with knowledgeable drivers in Nukus who are ready to navigate the routes around the Aral Sea.

Road along the former bottom of the Aral Sea

A typical Aral Sea tour spans two days. On the first day, tourists depart Nukus and drive on a paved road to Muynak, where they visit the local museum and the ship graveyard. From there, they continue on a dirt road to reach the shores of the Aral Sea. The journey includes climbing up to the Ustyurt Plateau and then descending to a yurt camp. On the second day, visitors can walk along the seashore, swim if they wish, and then return via Sudochie Lake, passing through the abandoned fishing village of Urga.

Although it is possible to visit the Aral Sea in a single day, it would significantly decrease the time for sightseeing and necessitate leaving Nukus before dawn. Alternatively, the trip can be extended to explore north along the coastline towards Kazakhstan or include a visit to the Barsa-Kelmes salt marsh on the way back.

History of the Aral Sea

The geological history of the Aral Sea is relatively short ; it formed just 17,600 years ago from the melting glaciers in the Pamir and Tian Shan mountains at the end of the last ice age. Studies show that the seawater level has varied throughout its history. For instance, in 2001, researchers discovered a 12th-century mausoleum, Kerderi, on the former seabed in the Kazakh part of the sea. This site was submerged during the 15th and 16th centuries and remained under 20 meters of water until the late 20th century.

Kurgancha-Kala fortress

The first known ships on the Aral Sea appeared in the mid-19th century. By the early 20th century, the sea was bustling with fishing fleets that, in their best years, harvested over 50,000 tons of fish annually.

The Aral Sea's ecological disaster began in 1960, when a sharp decline in the water level was first noticed. Over the next 30 years, the lake halved in size, and by 30 years later, only 10% of its original area remained.

Dive deeper into the history of the Aral Sea.

Aral Sea Attractions

Cliffs of the Ustyurt plateau overlooking the Aral Sea

The Aral Sea's modern coastline, or rather the journey to it, is the main attraction. This route offers a stark view of the ecological disaster’s extent and shows just how far the waters have receded.

The ship graveyard in Muynak is a poignant sight, where a small group of ships from the 1980s slowly rusts away, turning into iron skeletons. Today, 11 ships and boats stand there.
Kurgancha-Kala, built in the 13th century, served as a refuge and outpost for caravans. It is located 100 km northwest of Muynak on the Ustyurt Plateau. A yurt camp for tourists is now located nearby.
Sudochie consists of several lakes that were once connected to the Aral Sea. In the past, the region was known for its prolific fish production, harvesting 2,000 tons of fish. And the western shore was home to the fishing village of Urga, another reminder of the ecological tragedy.
Aralsk-7, a secret Soviet-era city on Vozrozhdeniya (Rebirth) Island, was used for developing and testing biological weapons. It was abandoned in 1992, and the laboratories were dismantled. Today, the city has been razed, and it is no longer visited.

Aral Sea in Kazakhstan

The northern part of the Aral Sea is situated within Kazakhstan. Aralsk, akin to Muynak in Uzbekistan, hosts a collection of old ships that remain permanently moored at the port. The city has faced challenges due to the receding waters, but the construction of the Kokaral Dam between 2003 and 2005 has been instrumental in conserving water in the sea. This area is now known as the Small Aral, and there are ambitious plans underway to expand the dam, which could raise the water level enough to reach Aralsk.

Ships preserved in the museum of the city of Aralsk

Attractions in the Kazakh part of the Aral Sea include:
Kerderi – a 12th-century mausoleum influenced by Islamic culture with elements of shamanism and tengrism, is situated on the former seabed, 170 km southwest of Aralsk.
Raim – The remnants of a Russian fort can still be found at the point where the Syr Darya flows into the Aral Sea. Today, it stands as ruins and eroded walls, located 100 km south of Aralsk.

Traveling to both the Uzbek and Kazakh parts of the Aral Sea is a daunting and lengthy endeavor. A significant detour over 1800 km through the Ustyurt Plateau is necessary to travel from Muynak to Aralsk. Other options include a sequence of flights from Nukus to Tashkent to Almaty to Kyzylorda and then a 450-kilometer drive to Aralsk. Or a flight from Nukus to Tashkent followed by almost a day on the Tashkent-Moscow train that stops at Aralsk.

How to Get to the Aral Sea

An SUV is a must-have! While the town of Muynak is accessible by paved roads in a standard car ; reaching the current shores of the Aral Sea requires an all-wheel-drive vehicle with high ground clearance and strong tires. Several companies in Nukus offer such SUVs with drivers.

Overnight in a yurt camp on the Aral Sea

Nukus is the usual starting point for the journey to the Aral Sea, which can be reached by either plane or car from Khiva.

The distance between Nukus and Muynak is 200 km, and it takes another 130 km from Muynak to reach a yurt camp on the Aral Sea shore. Travelers who want to expand their experience can drive an extra 70 km north along the coast. Stunning views of cliffs and rock formations await you as you descend from the Ustyurt Plateau to the coast on this part of the trip. However, this extension requires an additional day and extra fuel canisters.

Alternatively, since August 2024, the Aktau-Nukus train has been operating, connecting the Caspian Sea port city to Karakalpakstan's capital. By combining a Mangistau tour and an Aral Sea trip, one can enjoy a remarkable journey.

Safety at the Aral Sea

Touring the Aral Sea means venturing into semi-wild desert territories, and we advise against doing so without a guide or a driver who knows all the current dirt roads. Navigating the ascents and descents on the Ustyurt Plateau on the way to the sea demands proficient off-road driving skills. There is also a risk of a vehicle’s wheels sinking into holes made by desert animals or getting mired in mud if driven too close to the waterline. Furthermore, obsolete GPS tracks accessible online may lead to eroded, washed-out roads or collapsed descents from the Ustyurt Plateau.

The travelers got too close to the shore

While on your trip, you will have opportunities to view panoramic scenes of the sea from the cliffs of the Ustyurt Plateau. However, it is best to keep a safe distance because the limestone is loose and crumbly, and some areas have overhanging ledges.

If you plan to swim in the Aral Sea, here are a few tips:

1. To prevent skin irritation, make sure to bring more water to rinse off the salt after swimming.
2. It is best to enter the water barefoot since the shoreline is made of sticky mud that can trap sandals or flip-flops.
3. Avoid getting seawater in your eyes; if it happens, rinse them immediately with plenty of clean, fresh water.

There have been no sightings of poisonous insects or snakes in the area for a long time. Depending on the season, be prepared for intense sun and dusty winds. Bring sunglasses, a hat or cap, and a scarf.

Cellular Coverage at the Aral Sea

In Muynak, all of Uzbekistan’s mobile operators provide cell service, with internet speeds ranging from 2G to 4G. However, just 20 km away from Muynak, towards the current coastline of the Aral Sea, you will find that all services drop off, with the exception of the Ucell network. In June 2024, Ucell installed a chain of cell towers up to the yurt camps, and now there is quality cellular communication and mobile internet there.

Best Time to Visit the Aral Sea

Autumn sunset on the Aral Sea

The Aral Sea area has a desert-like, dry climate. Summers are extremely hot, with intense sunlight and temperatures often rising above 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit). Winters, meanwhile, are cold and windy. Therefore, the best time to visit the Aral Sea is during spring and fall, which is also the ideal time to explore Uzbekistan.